When Your Plants Arrive

 

BARE ROOT | TUBERS | RHIZOMES | BULBS

Remove your roots from their packaging and inspect them for any damage. They should be hydrated and firm. If they are shriveled, dry and brittle they are probably not viable. If there are buds or new growth, this is a good sign that the roots are in good shape.

Plant out in the garden as soon as possible. If you can't plant them outside, pot them up indoors until temperatures are warm enough for outdoor planting.

In the Fall

Lift tender plants and store in a cool, dry location until spring. Be careful not to damage the roots as you dig them up; wounded roots can be susceptible to disease

POTTED PLANTS

Give them a good watering and sit them in bright, indirect light for a day or two so that they can recover from the journey.

Cut back any broken stems, preferably right above a set of leaves, if you can.  Sometimes the trip is rough even with the “fragile” sticker on the box.  As long as the root system is strong, the plants will put on new growth, and in fact, cutting stems back will promote bushier, fuller plants.  Feel free to cut other stems back by about a third the same way (right above a set of leaves) to promote that bushy growth if you want!

You’ll know they’re adjusting when the leaves perk up and new growth starts (or smaller leaves grow bigger).  Once they are acclimated you can plant them out. 

In the Fall

With the shorter days, perennials will start to go dormant and drop leaves for fall. As long as the plant has four to six weeks of decent weather to settle in it should be fine for the winter, assuming the weather isn’t too severe. A layer of mulch around the plant will help insulate the plant during the winter months.